CC2 Uniforms

[jim]

I have been reading about the many different way to make a uniform look like it's been CC2ed.

Most were "WTF", a few were "I'm not selling the farm to go through that complicated  procedure" and a few were "That has possibilities".

The Otter Wax method appears to be the best way to do it.  And the best thing about Otter Wax is it is designed to be put on clothing that you wear.

The instructions said it would take 1 1/2 cans to do a jump uniform.  I'm assuming a painted uniform will take less.  Ordered the wax and got the three can deal.

I'll take pictures and update this thread as I do it.  Hope to have it done before the next Waxhaw so you guys can look and touch it.

I do not plan on soaking the cloth.  Just enough to get a light, uniform covering.

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[Bruce "Face' Dale]

c505pir.proboards.com/thread/144/cc2-chemical-impregnation-jump-uniforms

Service Co. Rigger Mods is run by Ryan Kergides who uses the petroleum jelly method to show the CC2 treatment and additionally applies the white residue to the creases and folds of the uniforms. You can pay him to do it or do it yourself but I can tell you it is worth the time and effort to have it done or do it yourself. If you don't have the means to order otterwax online and want an economical option go with petroleum jelly....if you have the time and desire to experiment the use the otterwax method. Both are rated as appearing very realistic by guys that have done both.

Here's my M42 done previously with Vaseline and I just recently redid the white powder residue using the recommended drywall spackle/water mix method.  The white residue appearance has to be refreshed every so often as it brushes off or washes off in the laundry. 

 

[Bruce "Face' Dale]

Just finished this top, Vaseline, dryer, spackle to seams and folds.....just need rank and ready to roll out. 

[jim]

Gave the Otter Wax a go today.  My test subject was a pair of Echo 42R's from AtF.  This was painted at the painting party the Pathfinders held last fall.

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[jim]

One problem with the Echo's is the snaps.  Four pulled out just opening everything up.  Not wanting to fill them up with wax and bust a few more I filled them with PJ first.

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[jim]

Wax - I was trying to be quick and went the can way like the site says for cloths instead of the bar way.

Anyway, here's the wax on the way to melting.

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[jim]

And the big problem with a painted uniform.  When you use melted wax and a brush it goes on the cloth great but just sits on top of the paint.

If you have a painted uniform go the PJ way bdale posted or use the Otter Wax bar.  It's hard to keep the wax melted for a big project and it sits on the paint.  The wax is softer than I thought and would be easy to spread on the unpainted cloth.

As you can see in the photo there's thick spots on the paint.

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[jim]

Just checked on the jacket and after a couple of days it looks a lot better.  I'll still take the hair drier to the painted areas and mop up the excess wax with a paper towel.

This weekend I'll take the remaining two cans and spread the wax thinly like butter over the unpainted areas.

I like bdale's spackleing but think it may be a hair too thick and too consistent.  The CC2 soaked into the cloth and then at the stress points was folded and then squeezed back out giving a broken, inconsistent look.  What we are doing is trying to put something on top of the treatment to try and make it look squeezed out.

Once the pants are done I'll hit the jacket with paraffin.  Also will fold some of the stress points to see if any wax comes up.

[Bruce "Face' Dale]

The key to using the spackle is to water it down so that thins it out and it gets more into the fabric and threads etc. You can also rub into between the fingers and just sort of lightly brush it on at random. This stuff wears off the uniform quick so it diminishes over time and of course it's common knowledge that troopers wore these uniforms for as short a period as possible before boiling out the CC2 or getting replacement equipment that wasn't CC2 treated.

There's even some veteran recollections of faking the CC2 treatment by spreading foot powder on the uniform and brushing it in to give an appearance that it had been done already!

[jim]

And now they have a thread running on this subject over at the WW II help page.  Couple of folks who have original CC2 uniforms that are still sticky have commented plus other methods - which is pretty much what we've been talking about.

If you can't find it put CC2 in the search bar.

[jim]

Jacket update - I'm happy now

Laid the jacket out in the hot sun for a while and then wiped off the painted parts into the unpainted parts.  Turned it over and repeated the process.

Front

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[jim]

Back

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[jim]

For the pants I'll spread the Otter Wax over the unpainted parts like butter on toast with a touch of overlap on the paint.  Some of the painted areas have light hits letting a lot of material show through.  I'll hit those areas with the wax as well.  That would be a judgement thing on your part.

Then do the same sun and wipe  as I did on the jacket.

None of the types of CC2 treatment being done that I saw - did see some finished products - was on a painted uniform.

So my recommendation is whatever method  you use stay away from the solid/thick paint areas with your treatment material.

If you notice the lower right pocket has a little white along the top of the pocket.  The finishing touch will be a very small bead of wax along the stress points.

Just my opinion in all this mess.

[Bruce "Face' Dale]

More experimentation and techniques on this. Below was done with Canvak Canvas sealer from Cabelas.  The fellow doing this set had the unfortunate problem of the lid popping off the foot powder creating too much CC2 "residue" but a simple enough fix to just wash the uniform to get it off and re-do the touch up work.  Interesting to see the different methods.   He did indicate however the Canvak sealer was $40 so an expensive method comparatively. 

 

[Bruce "Face' Dale]

Another version using the M42 jacket. Uniform was soaked in Olympic deck sealer, drip dried, washed on medium heat and drip dried again. The sealant was applied a few weeks ago, followed later with Vaseline by hand and dried. Has a pretty good inconsistent look to it. My only concern using deck sealant or other chemical is what happens when you start to sweat in the uniform and it's contacting the skin for hours on end?